Size Grading

What is Size Grading in Technical Pack?

The basic concept of size grading in a technical pack

Factually, the science of grading went hand in hand with the advent of commercial patterns and mass production of patterned clothing about 150 years ago. To adequately fit a sample to a range of sizes, each sample had to be systematically evaluated, expanded, or reduced. Today, pattern makers and clothing manufacturers adopt a medium-sized model (usually size 12) and rate it for larger and smaller sizes.

One pattern or motif, three sizes in size grading

A 12 base size pattern can be reduced to size 16 (middle) by using the cut and stretch method and down to size 6 (bottom) by cutting and overlapping along certain cut lines.

  • Methods of size grading in technical pack

There are three basic methods of size grading: cut, spread, pattern shifting or moving a model, and computer grading. There is no technically superior method and they are all capable of achieving the right quality.

  • Cut and Stretch:

The simplest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, is to cut the design and enlarge the pieces by a certain size to enhance them or overlap them to evaluate them. No special training or tools are required – just scissors, a pencil, duct tape, and a ruler that breaks from 1 inch to 1/64.

  • Pattern shifting in size grading of technical pack:

Pattern shifting increases the overall size of a pattern by moving it up and down, left and right (using a specially designed ruler) according to measured distances, and redrafting the outline to achieve the same results and propagation and propagation cut.

The latest development is the fastest method, but it is usually an investment that only the largest manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home PC software is becoming affordable.

  •  Size Grading Vs Change or Alternation: What’s the Difference?

Size grading is used to increase or decrease a dimension based on an average difference between the dimensions. Modification is used to adjust a certain size to a person’s figure.

It is important to remember that sorting only makes a shape larger or smaller and is not intended to change any shape. The ranking also shows that individuals of different sizes are proportionately different and not uniformly different. When we go up or down, we are not doing everything the same amount or less. Instead, let’s consider that different parts of the body gain weight in different and proportional quantities.

  • Patterns and body measurements

The first step in any evaluation exercise is to accurately measure your original model. Sometimes you can find the most important measurements (chest, waist, and hips) on the sample cover. Or you can measure the pattern yourself. When measuring a swatch, keep two things in mind when deciding the actual size of the garment to be sewn, not the size of the paper batch. First, think about all the details about the design. If a garment has an arrow across the chest that extends to the waist, leave the arrow area in the middle when measuring the waist. Similarly, omit the volume given to wrinkles and clusters. Second, measure the pattern from the seam line to the seam line, not from the cut line to the cut line.

  • Establish the grade

After you have the rust, waist, and hip measurements from the pattern and your body, you can address the basic grading dilemma, “How much will I rate if the model is too small? Or, if it’s too big, how many votes.”?” The total grade or total amount required to enlarge or reduce the model is only necessary to calculate the difference between the pattern and the body measurements.

  • Four ways to deal with an uneven grade

If you have a fair grade, the evaluation process is easy. However, sewers and household accessories often have uneven qualities when, for example, a dress needs to be classified 2 inches above the table but 4 inches at the hips. If the grade is inconsistent, there are four ways to use the grade to change the model:

1. If the slope is uneven and increasing, a flat slope can be used that corresponds to the value of the largest measurement difference. When reducing, use a flat slope equal to the value of the smallest difference. This way, the model will come close to the overall size you need so you can make changes if necessary.

2. The preferred method allows me to be more specific and is the best way to solve problems suitable for the pear or triangular women. Separate the design at the waist and classify the top and bottom separately. Then reattach the pattern and join the new lines at the waist.

3. An uneven inclination can occur, which is based solely on the difference between the model and body rust measurements. Because the chest is the most difficult to assemble, many modelers evenly classify the model to fit the chest and then modify the waist and hips as needed.

4. This method is specific to a common classification challenge that occurs when changing the width or height of a body, but not both. For example, on a customer who has reached the weight, rate the girth and forget to rate the length. Or for a teenage daughter who is 6 years taller but not otherwise filled, ignores the outline and only one degree in length.

  • Take it to the next level

If this is your first time trying a size grading, start with a simple top front and back, a skirt and sleeve front and back, and then move on to more complex patterns. Remember that no matter how “designed” any pattern is, it is based on one or more of the five basic parts. A strapless top also began as a basic top. So place the strapless bodice pattern on top of the basic bodice pattern and move the cut lines. A dress has only one top attached to a skirt, so the cut lines and the sparse/overlapping dimensions remain the same. Just match the vertical lines of the top to those of the skirt. The assessment can be as complex or as simple as you’d like it to be. So if this is your first time going to a pattern, always start with these basics.

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